1 Seal off all areas and set up the dustless equipment. We always seal off the surrounding
areas with plastic sheeting and cover any wall or floor vents. This not only protects
the other rooms from dust... It also protects our work area from any contamination.
2 Sweep and vacuum your floor. We like to start off with a clean area so we can see
what we have to work with. This greatly helps us to do the next step properly.
3 Inspect your floor carefully looking for any protruding nails and countersink them.
Almost every floor we work on in London has nails sticking up from the floor boards.
4Removing the existing finish. The purpose of the first cut is to remove the old
existing finish and waxes and get down to the bare wood. We use two different machines
in this process. The big belt sander sands in a straight line, up and down the length
of the room.The smaller sander – called an edger - sands in a circular motion around
the perimeter of the room.
The number of sanding passes required will be largely determined by the condition
of the old floor. If the surface is in very good shape (worn through areas, light
scratches and a few dents)and has little build-up of old finish and wax, one pass
with a medium grit paper is usually sufficient for this step.Most floors we work
on have been sanded previously – some are at their very last sand.Because of this,
we try extremely hard to removeas little wood as possible.Extra Step:If there is
a huge build-up of wax, finish or tar paper, or the floor has been badly abused or
damaged, we may need to do more than just one cut for this process. In these cases
we drop down to a coarser grit of sandpaper for the first cut.Depending on how bad
the floors are, we may need to go through many belts and discs as they gum up or
dull. Once the worst of it is removed,we now need to take out the coarse marks left
behind. To do this we gradually increase the gritson the sandpaper until it’s ready
for the next step.
A.Resin: fine dust from the floor being sanded is mixed with a resin and applied
to gaps with filling knife.
B.Solid Pine Strip: strips of reclaimed pine are glued, forced into the gaps, and
6 Final cut with the belt sander and edger.This final sand is done with fine grit
sandpaper and serves two purposes. First it removes the filler sitting on top of
the floor that didn’t go into any cracks and second it eliminates the coarser sanding
scratches from the previous sanding.
7 Buff the floor. We use a rotary buffer with an abrasive screen to blend the difference
between the belt sander’s straight sanding marks and the edger’s circular marks.
If this is done properly, when the finish is applied the difference in sanding patterns
are barely visible.